Cody Updike

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Escaping the Winter Blues: New Providence, Bahama's

A crisp Autumn has begun to roll out the red carpet for New York's winter, making me dream of warmer winter escapes spent on Caribbean shores.

After I had first moved from home, and spent a winter alone, I found that the best way to escape the winter blues was to flee south. My first escape was spent in the Florida Keys, but last January I upgraded to a much brighter island.

I enjoy traveling to new locations and throwing myself into their culture. I found the best way to enjoy a place was to do everything on your own: stay with a local, eat at local food spots, ride their public transport. I found some of my favorite spots just by exploring and speaking with people.

Off-Beach Snorkeling In The Bahama's

I have been in love with the water as far as I can remember, spending most summers wading up  Creeks and swimming in cold Adirondack lakes. 

The Bahama's in January was a little colder than I had expected, but the water was still crystal clear.

My first day spent on the ocean was at the popular Cable Beach, right near the resorts. I had taken the bus from the apartment of an elderly Bahamian woman I was staying with, and accidently rode the entire bus route, almost twice. It turns out you have to ask to get off the bus in the Bahama's.

Despite the proximity to the resorts, we had the beach almost to ourselves due to it being out of tourist season. While relaxing in the late afternoon glow, a taxi driver approached, offering to take us to a more secluded beach farther from Nassau.

Although we declined his offer to bring us there and back on his lunchbreak so he could take photo's of us, an offer that set off red flags for me, we traveled to Love Beach the next day.

The water was a wonderful blue with stone coral cresting like breaking waves onto the beach. Swimming out between the natural piers, I explored deeper grottos and ravines diving beneath the surface to ease my way through cracks in the coral. 

In a crevice barely wider than my shoulders, my fins propelling me deeper into the rift, I came face to face with a shark. We both stuttered to a stop for a moment, then my heart thundered back into motion. Both the little 3-foot shark and myself bolted in opposite directions, fleeing to safety.

In my excitement I ran onto the beach screaming shark! shark! It wasn't my best choice of words, but I had been pretty excited.

Favorite Bahamian Cuisine

The main strips of Nassau are filled with shops and tourist traps. Chain restaurants and cheesy spots aimed for vacationers rolling off the cruise ships are most of what you will find right in town.

Venture towards Junkanoo Beach and a little local take-away spot called the Imperial Takeaway has some of the most heavenly breakfast. At just 4 dollars for a double take-out container of tuna and the best Johnny Cake I have ever eaten.

Farther west of Junkanoo is a small strip of beach and palm trees before a cluster of more touristy restaurants. That unsuspecting path is lined with small shacks and popup grills. 

Explore these little eateries, made with a cobbling of barrels sawed in half and old wooden battles, to try out some amazing grilled pork.

The more famous dishes like conch salad and fritters are great and all, but there is nothing that can beat sitting on the beach, chatting with groups of locals drinking a cool beer and firing up the grill.

Along this strip are more than spots to grab a cheap bite, a few of the shacks open up in the late afternoons selling rum punches, Bahama Mama's and something called SkyJuice. Before you ask, I still am not sure what is in there. The sign on the side of the building says, 'it is what it is'.

I think it's coconut, but it sure gives you a buzz 

Best Bahamian Beaches to Hang Out At

After figuring out the bus system, and riding for 15 minutes on baited breath as my bus driver raced a competitor, all while talking loudly on two cell phones at, I made my way to Jaw's Beach.

The bay of beautiful white sand was barren of all other people when we arrived, so we explored, collecting sand dollars and walking aimlessly as the surf sucked gently at our feet. We walked until we had lost sight of all buildings and the fronds of palms shaded us in friendly greeting. Splashing through the water we found paradise, in this long stretch of sand.

Being out of season, the few people who showed up to ruin the stillness of the place didn't stay long. Snorkeling along the shoreline turned up all sorts of coral and small fish. Farther out, where the water deepened, the clear blue of the surf faded to the sandy bottom where the occasional fish darted playfully.

There was something magical about the Clifton Heritage Park, found in the sunlit wonder of the beach, the playful dancing of the fish, the old ruins of the buildings lost amongst the vegetation, and the forgotten golf carts sinking into the sand.

Venture Outside of Your Comfort Zone

To truly get to know the Bahama's, know these few things; visit outside of the vacation season, get out of your comfort zone and visit places off the beaten path, immerse yourself in the locals around you to learn about who they are as people and the best places to go, and always say yes to the curiousity squirming in your gut.

Too many moments where I followed that tug of my curiosity had led me to beautiful beaches and off beach snorkeling wonders, on adventures deep into the island, to the backroom of a bar where local kids passed around a mic, reading poetry and rapping with a depth I had not heard in a long while. 

If the winter blues grip you this season, take my advice and escape for a little while. A week in the sun is just what you need. Trust me, I'm a doctor.